On Symbolism and the Instagram Still Life.
Researching the history of food and its use in still life paintings, one gathers a sense of the rich symbolism on display throughout the genre. This is particularly evident in 17th-century works emanating from what has come to be labelled as the Dutch Golden Age. During this time of great wealth and prosperity, rich compositions were assembled using a veritable cornucopia of luxury foodstuffs. Indeed, these works were often constructed as memento mori with many displaying great opulence suffused with symbols surrounding death and decay. In particular, compositions featuring game, shellfish, and other meats are often read as a sign of wealth with the inevitable rot of such flesh warning of temptation and gluttony. Amongst the great variety of fruits and vegetables skillfully depicted across countless canvases, myriad symbolic meanings have been prescribed. These include:
Apples – Temptation / Knowledge.
Grapes – Pleasure / Lust.
Peaches – The Heart / Good Health.
Pomegranates – Spring / Fertility.
Lemons – Wealth.
Shellfish – Birth / Good Fortune.
Asparagus – Luxury / Prosperity / Virility.
The preoccupations apparent in such works can provide a valid framework for understanding the current day analogue to still life painting, that of stylized instagram-ready food photography. Themes of status and mortality continue to inform our depictions of food, although the overt symbolic emphasis on death has been somewhat sublimated to a more personal focus on health and longevity. Indeed, whilst a lemon may have alluded to financial wealth and prosperity in 17th-century Holland, the average contemporary food blogger is probably more concerned with its antioxidant properties.
This is not to say that notions of prestige are not inherent in contemporary visual food culture, though they are usually understood via formal signifiers that share more in common with Cézanne’s bold brushstrokes than the overtly symbolic compositions of the 17th-century. In the era of (Western) abundance, status-as-linked-to-diet is often conveyed in terms of natural lighting, organic-seeming yet thoughtfully composed compositions (shot from overhead of course), and artisanal dishware. In translating still lifes to such a format, particularly those suffused with dense symbology, the high formalism of our age becomes readily apparent.
In the end, perhaps such analysis gives too much weight to the symbolic content of still life painting. Such extravagant pieces were, first and foremost, objects of great value created for invariably wealthy patrons, and now continue to be traded amongst the same clique. As John Berger (1972) points out, paintings “often depict things. Things which in reality are buyable” and that oil painting “reduced everything to the equality of objects”. In reality, the foodstuffs depicted via modern or storied means are subsumed by artifact and may represent nothing more than a mirror to our own vanities. Julia Fior, writing of the early masters, stresses this point of view saying,
“Far from examining some distant phenomenon, 17th-century Dutch still lifes offer an uncanny perspective on our own times, in which globalism and consumer culture seem to be reaching a peak, once again in tandem with one another. What are the true social costs of today’s most sought-after items, and why do people love to show them off?”
The same could be asked of our fetishization of food as aesthetic, particularly in times of climate change and increasing global food shortage. Indeed by recasting painterly still lifes as Instagram-ready food portraits, perhaps very little gets lost in translation after all.
Bibliography:
Berger, J. (1972, pp 83-87). Ways of seeing. London: Penguin.
Flore, J. (2018) In Dutch Still Lifes, Dark Secrets Hide behind Exotic Delicacies. Available at: https://www.artsy.net/article/artsy-editorial-dutch-lifes-dark-secrets-hide-exotic-delicacies (Accessed: 16/11/2021).
Snow, E. (2021). 10 Common Symbols in Still-Life Paintings & What They Mean. Available at: https://www.thecollector.com/still-life-paintings-what-they-mean/ (Accessed: 16 November 2021).